Grand Canyon National Park

Powell's First Expedition entered Marble Canyon on August 5, 1869. During the next three weeks, Powell's men endured some of the worst hardships of the voyage. Having almost no rations left, and despite the deteriorating condition of their boats, they continued, facing unknown terror in the rapids of the Grand Canyon. The passage through the Inner Gorge severely wore on the men. Upon approaching another section of granite gorge in the lower canyon, three members of the party chose to walk out rather than risk what they considered assured disaster. However, the three members who chose to walk out disappeared, and were reportedly killed by Indians. On August 30th, the six surviving members of the First Expedition passed the Grand Wash Cliffs and met Mormon settlers near mouth of the Virgin River, thus ending the first historic voyage.

For the Second Expedition, Major Powell established a temporary survey headquarters in Kanab, Utah where most of expedition party spent the winter (1871 to 1872). Over the winter some members of the party left due to funding problems, boredom, and having other ambitions. In April 1872, photographers Jack Hillers, James Fennemore, and other party members visited Toroweap and other parts of the Grand Canyon's north Rim (Hillers returned to the rim again in January, 1873). On May 25th, 1872, Powell's brother-in-law, "Prof." Almon H. Thompson began an expedition from Kanab to the mouth of the Dirty Devil River. From there, the four-member boat crew of the Cañonita met Powell and other remaining members of the Second Expedition at the mouth of the Paria River in late August. After making repairs to the battered boats (including the Emma Dean and Nellie Powell), the Second Expedition ran Marble Canyon and Grand Canyon (from Lees Ferry to Kanab Wash). Powell decided to end the river expedition on September 9th at Kanab Wash. His decision was based on news that the Shiviwits Indians were threatening to attack the party if they proceeded down the canyon. In addition, Powell's choice was also based on the poor condition of the boats, the exhausted character of his men, and fear of the river that was running with high water. In retrospect, none of the expedition diaries express regret about canceling the river trip below Kanab Wash. The Powell Survey exploration of the Grand Canyon region would continue, but not by river voyage. The photograph collection below includes images from the 1872 river voyage plus images taken by Hillers and Fennemore during overland expeditions in 1872 and 1873.

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona. Marble Canyon. 1872.
USGS Earth Science Photographic Archive digital file: hjk00845

From Lees Ferry, the Colorado River descends into a canyon lined with Paleozoic-age sedimentary rocks, mostly limestone and dolomite. This motivated Powell to name the river gorge Marble Canyon . Downstream through Marble Canyon rocks of increasing age are exposed at river level. For nearly 50 miles downstream of Lees Ferry, limestone, sandstone, and shale formations of late Paleozoic age (Devonian to Permian in age) crop out in the riverside cliffs. Rocks of each sedimentary formation have unique, recognizable characteristics (including fossils). These formations form the step-like benches in the canyon seen in the distance in this photograph of Marble Canyon. From youngest (top) to oldest (bottom) these included the Kaibab Limestone (highest cliff), Toroweap Formation (slope), Coconino Sandstone (second cliff), Hermit Shale (wide slope), the Supai Group (cliffs and slope above first cliff), and the Redwall Limestone (cliff at river level).

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona. Grand Canyon at the mouth of the Little Colorado River. August 23, 1872.
USGS Earth Science Photographic Archive digital files: hjk00894 and hjk0894a

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona. Outlet of Surprise Valley 10 miles above the mouth of Kanab. September 7, 1872.
USGS Earth Science Photographic Archive digital files: hjk00893 and hjk0893a

This photo is of Deer Creek Falls about 2 miles downstream from Tapeats Creek. Powell passed the falls after dinner on August 23, 1869. In his river journal he wrote, "Just after dinner we pass a stream on the right which leaps into the Colorado by a direct fall of more than 100 feet. On the rocks in the cave-like chamber are ferns, with delicate fronds and enameled stocks." This photograph was taken during the Second Expedition, the last day on the river for the Second Expedition.